Congratulations, you have come to the right place! For beginners we would suggest trying our candle making kits, after all the best way to learn, is to do! Our kits come with an easy to follow step by step guide and all the ingredients you need to get started. We have a step by step candle making guide here. If you do have any problems you can call us on (+44) 1709 588579 or drop us an email at email@example.com.
Our wax melt making guide is a must read for beginners interested in creating your own wax melts
• Cooker / microwave / heat source to melt the wax
• Container to melt the wax in such as a double boiler or a pan inside a pan
• Pouring jug
• Utensil to stir the wax
Most of these items are available in our Miscellaneous section.
Now let’s get started with making your wax melts!
Step 1: The wax – Ensure you have chosen a pillar blend wax, pillar blend wax shrinks when it is cooled making it ideal for wax melts. Kerasoy pillar blend is the preferred wax for making wax melts. This gives off a great scent throw & leaves the melts surface very shiny.
Step 2: Heating the wax – Empty your pillar blend wax into your heating pot. Gently heat your wax to 75 – 80°C whilst stirring gently. Do not exceed 80°C. Remove your wax from the heat source at this point.
Step 3: Adding your colour – Leave your wax to cool to 70°C & then add your candle dye chips or liquid candle dye. Stir gently until all the colour has dissolved & spread evenly. We suggest using 0.2%, therefore a 10 g of dye will colour 5 kg of wax.
Step 4: Adding your fragrance – We suggest to add 10% fragrance oil, so if you are working with 1 kg of wax, we suggest to add 100 grams of oil. Have the correct amount of fragrance measured out ready to add. Between 65°C – 70°C is the best time to add your fragrance oil. Once added you need to stir thoroughly.
Step 5: Pouring – Now all your ingredients are mixed, continue stirring until your wax reaches 60°C. Once this temperature is reached, it is time to pour the wax into your clamshells (or other moulds you may have) until filled. It is important gently pour into your clamshells to avoid air bubbles.
Step 6: Curing – Allow your wax melts to set for at least 3 hours before closing the clamshell lids. Give your wax melts at least 3 days curing time for best possible scent throw.
Please note, our wax melt making guide is a general starter guide for beginners into melt making. Variations in waxes, fragrances and dyes can all effect the finished product, what works for some melts may not work as well for others.
The key to great melts is trial and error.
For wax melts and candles, we recommend to add around 10% fragrance oil. This means if your candle is 100 grams in total – 90 grams of should be wax and 10 grams should be oil.
For reed diffusers we suggest to add 25% fragrance oil, so in a 100 ml diffuser jar, 25 ml will be fragrance oil and 75 ml will be reed diffuser base.
For wax melts we suggest to use a pillar blend wax.
Pillar blend waxes shrink once set so they pop out of moulds easily.
If you want to make ‘natural’ wax melts, we suggest the kerasoy pillar blend or Ecosoy Q230.
For paraffin wax melts with optimum scent throw we suggest the paraffin pillar blend.
Absolutely! Our fragrance oils can be used for a range of applications such as soaps, bath bombs, room sprays, diffusers, perfumery etc.
Please see the IFRA certificate for the maximum % of oil used for each application.
The IFRA certificate is available to download under the data sheet tab on each fragrance product page.
To work out the amount of wax you need for your container, simply fill your container with water and pour into a measuring jug.
Measure the amount of water the container holds in ml’s.
Minus 20% off this amount, this leaves you with roughly the amount of wax your container holds in grams.
For example, if your container holds 100 ml of water, minus 20% which leaves 80. This container would therefore hold roughly 80 grams of wax.
nder the General Product Safety Regulations 2005, it is required that all producers and distributors of any potentially dangerous product must be fully labelled with information and warnings relating to that product. Our candle safety label contains all the relevant information and warnings your customers need to know about safely using your candles.
As well as a candle safety label your candles or melts must also be CLP complaint.
The CLP Regulation (for “Classification, Labelling and Packaging”) is a European Union regulation from 2008, which aligns the European Union system of classification, labelling and packaging of chemical substances and mixtures to the Globally Harmonised System (GHS).
This article explains CLP in great detail in how to be complaint: http://www.cirs-reach.com/CLP/Labelling_Packaging.html
This area of labelling can be very confusing, but we have made it easy for you. Fragrances contain a range of different chemicals which are classed as potentially harmful and need to be displayed on the packaging. The chemicals in each fragrance are all different. We have a data sheet available for every fragrance we supply.
A candle generally speaking can hold 10% fragrance oil, so we provide a 10% data sheet for each fragrance. Simply go to the fragrance product page, and click the data sheets tab. Under the data sheet tab you will see ‘Download 10% MSDS.’
Once downloaded, open the data sheet and scroll to section 2.2 ‘Label Elements.’
Everything in this area needs to be put directly onto your candle label.
For most fragrances we have already created a CLP label template for you. Simply print off, add your company details, print using a label printer and stick to your candle or wax melt. You are CLP compliant. Easy!
Fragrances vary specific gravity and in flash point. When a fragrance has a low flash point and low specific gravity, it requires a smaller sized wick to allow the fragrance to evaporate out of the wax, and to achieve a good sized melt-pool. The flash point of each fragrance can be found on the fragrance data sheet which is under the data sheets tab.
The opposite would be high flash point and specific gravity fragrances, such as chocolate and vanilla, which will require hotter burning wicks.
Sink holes are normal and unavoidable in candle making. Wax naturally expands when heated and shrinks when cools, the shrinkage causes the sink holes.
Potential solutions are pouring at a lower temperature, the lower the temperature the less shrinkage occurs. Heating the containers can also reduce shrinkage rate. We suggest to poke holes around the wick and refill during cooling. To get a smooth top surface this may need to be done several times.
This is known as mottling. Potential causes could be the wax has too much oil present. The wax has cooled too quickly.
Possible solutions are using a harder wax or a wax with a higher melt point.
Allow for the wax to be cooled more slowly, i.e. in a warmer environment (like a water bath)
Air bubbles can be caused by numerous ways. Possible causes are the wax was cooled too quickly, the wax was poured too cold, or too fast. Or the air simply wasn’t released.
Possible solutions are to allow the wax to cool more slowly, pour the wax at a hotter temperature, pour the wax more slowly, try tilting the containers when pouring the wax, also tap the containers once the pour is completed to release air bubble.
There lines are also called ‘jump lines’ and can be caused for reasons such as the container being too cold, the wax being poured to cold.
Potential solutions are heating the containers before pouring. Pouring the wax at a higher temperature.
Poor scent throw can be caused by a number of factors, such as not enough fragrance being added. We suggest to load our waxes with 10% fragrance for maximum scent.
You could also be using a low quality fragrance, ensure you use 100% concentrated fragrance like all Supplies For Candles fragrance oils.
Another possible cause is the fragrance being burned off before pouring. Ensure you add your fragrance last, when your wax is at the correct temperature for pouring. The quicker the fragrance is poured into the container and cooled, the less is burned off.
Another option to increase scent throw is to add Vybar, Vybar allows you to increase scent load to 12%.
Lastly the fragrance may not able to release into the air due to the wax being too hard. Use a soft/low melt point wax without many additives to increase the melt pool and increase fragrance throw.
This is caused by the wax not adhering to the jar in certain places giving the wet spot appearance.
To avoid wet spots ensure that your glasses are thoroughly cleaned before using. Try pre-heating the glasses before pouring. Try lowering the pour temperature to avoid shrinkage. Certain additives may also help such as beeswax to soften the wax. You can also use a heat gun to re-heat the outside of the glasses and get rid of the wet spots. (This also works with bubbles and jump lines).
Potential causes are not using a mould release, pouring the wax too hot, or the second pour is over the fill line.
Solutions are spraying the mould with silicon or lightly wiping with vegetable oil before pouring. Avoid over filling. Pouring the wax at a lower temperature. Placing the candle in the freezer for a few minutes and it should pop straight out.
Cracks in candles are caused by the wax being cooled too fast, usually because the candle has been cooled in a fridge or freezer. To avoid cracking cool at room temperature or in a warm water.
This is caused by the second pour being too cool. Try and aim to pour the re-pour only a couple of degrees lower than the original pour. Also to improve appearance do the re-pour layer whilst the candle is still warm and not fully hardened.
The candle smoking can be caused by a number of factors, such as the wick being too large, the wick not being cut short enough, too much fragrance oil in the wax or air pockets in the candle.
Potential solutions are using a smaller wick size, keep the wick trimmed to half a cm tall. See why my candle has air bubbles above to avoid air pockets.
A good trick we have found is to use a clothes/washing line peg, to hold the wick in place and rest across the top of the container. An alternative is 2 pencils, or even a hair comb.
The main cause of the wick not staying lit is the wick is too small, or the wick is getting clogged from candle dyes. Potential solutions are using a larger wick, or reducing the amount of colour in the candle.
My candle flame is too large / my candle flame is too small.
If your flame is too large, use a smaller wick size, or if your flame is too small, use a larger wick size.
The main cause is the wick is too small, try a larger wick to increase melt pool size. The wax could also be too hard, try a lower melt point/softer wax or try an additive such as beeswax to soften.
The main reason for a flame which flickers is the wick is too large, try a smaller sized wick. Another potential cause could be water trapped in the wax, ensure no water from the double boiler or water bath enters the wax.